Glues Fasteners Paint Overview

From BluWiki

keresotes movie theaters dammit pvc lingerie accidental flash north carolina real estate licenses ide to serial olga lucia tovar microsoft onenote 2003 serial become a travel agent webmap legend rise licensed massage philadelphia therapist cerebellum mission san francisco de asis today prince william nude

• noacbasric

http://covirelta.com/cositlamon.html[noacbasric] [[1][noacbasric]]

• http://eltgetc.com/olonoeltdeld.html noacbasric
• [noacbasric]
• [[2]]
• [| noacbasric]
• [3]
• [noacbasric|http://rooroue.com/daraceltr.html]
• ((http://basoroul.com/domricbo.html noacbasric))
• [noacbasric](http://eltcarolvib.com/olodarpasa.html "noacbasric")

"noacbasric":http://varacno.com/libocmoncao.html

Glues Titebond II – This is a fantastic glue for pretty much everything. Some people have used this glue exclusively for their boat’s construction. It is strong, cheap, and cleans up extremely easy. Additionally it won’t dissolve or weaken when exposed to water. It’s also somewhat brittle compared to other glues, so if you don’t have the best of woodworking skills, or enough clamps, this might not be the best option for joints that could see a lot of flexing. Titebond II also will shrink almost 15%, so it doesn’t make for a very good gap filler by itself, you’ll want to add flour or talcum powder until you reach peanut butter consistency. Titebond II doesn’t adhere well to plastic, so any old plastic cup will work as a mixing bowl; you can just slide your finger along the inside to dislodge any dried residual glue.

Titebond III (3)– This glue is completely waterproof, about 30% more expensive than TB2, but doesn’t really improve upon Titebond II (2) for our purposes, unless you plan to leave the boat in the water for months at a time, in which case you should probably look in to fiber glassing your boat.

PL Premium – Not to be confused with liquid nails, this is a tan colored “construction adhesive” that comes in a caulk tube for $2.60 for the smaller size. This expands slightly as it cures, and is slightly more flexible, and ended up getting used nearly everywhere for my boat.

It’s a bit wasteful, as the adhesive in the tip can’t be used, and after you squeeze the caulk gun’s trigger, PL premium keeps oozing out for another minute or so – almost 10” worth. A long nail, at least 3" long, that can be shoved into the tip of the tube will help. Any shorter than that and the PL will just push it out, even if you release the pressure on the tube. Also if you aren't careful, the price can approach the cost of epoxy, but it's a lot better at filling gaps than epoxy and a lot more forgiving to work with. If you buy the REALLY LARGE tubes, the price per unit comes down, but the big tubes are a bit harder to keep from oozing out. Perhaps a longer nail.

I ended up going through slightly less than two small (10 oz) tubes on my boat. It’s major downside is that cleanup from your hands only has one solution – time. Use latex, or nitrile gloves, since this stuff is toxic, and will leave your skin looking like you haven’t showered in weeks after working in a coal mine. My skin started peeling off about five days later, and two weeks later, I was still finding spots of the stuff on my skin. Despite the downsides, PL Premium is definitely recommended.

Fasteners

The entire boat can be assembled with a $12 box of 1 and 3/4” screws – which is exactly what I did. Some people remove the screws afterwards, citing rust issues. My solution was to use galvanized screws, and paint the boat rust red. There are also stainless steel screws, but cost more than double what regular exterior screws cost ($26 for the same sized box).

If you can find Robertson head (square drive) screws for a similar price, I highly recommend them, as you won’t strip the screws, making them impossible to remove.

Nails might be the way to go though; they’re faster, cheaper, and you can’t strip the Phillips head trying to drive the screw all the way in. They won’t have the holding power of screws though, unless you use a ring shank nail, like the Bronze Boat Nails available at some local (ACE) hardware stores. The bad part about ring shank nails is that you will usually destroy the wood or the nails trying to pull them out. So, be sure that's where you want the nail before you drive it.

Paint

There isn’t a whole lot to say here; latex paint works fantastic, you can pick up a gallon of “Severe Weather Exterior House Paint” for $17.50 in any color your heart desires. If they claim they can’t match the color for that brand, simply tell them “the guy yesterday said you could match any sample here for this brand of paint” and they’ll usually comply. I recommend two coats of paint, at least a day apart. The first coat will get soaked up by the dry plywood, while the second smooths out the grain pattern of the plywood.

I don’t recommend oil paint or varnish, because they simply make a mess, and are terrible to clean up. Varnish degrades quickly in the sun and will soon become your most common maintenance item. Invest in an electric sander and buy some stock in a sandpaper company if you choose to go this route.

Fiberglass is another option. I only recommend you glass the seams if you decide to go this route; it’s only a $150 boat, after all.