Hull Detail

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[edit] Hull Detail

Marking and cutting the curve for the bottom of the sides is really easy. This sounds difficult, but in reality took me less than five minutes to do both sides. First mark the points on the plywood as described in figure 1.1, [Where is this figure?] then drive screws part way in to each point. Clamp one of your more warped 1x2”s to the second from the stern screw, and then one clamp at the stern most 0” stanchion mark. The 1x2” will create a perfect curve that you can then trace with a sharpie as a cutting line.

Chine logs – possibly the most difficult job you’ll have will be gluing and screwing the 1x2” to the side of the boat. If your garage floor has a lip between the driveway and the garage, this is an excellent spot to push the curved 1x2” in line with the plywood. Be sure to place glue liberally along the chine log 6 to 8 inches ahead of where you’re screwing, since you won’t be able to go back and glue next to the screw later. I recommend placing the screws 8 or so inches apart, or one hand span.

Before you get much further, build your mast and sail, then design your mast step and partner, and prepare to implement it in to your design and construction schedule – screwing a mast step through the bottom of the hull with one person (and doing a satisfactory job of it) is almost impossible. Since mast securement design is only third in variety after rudders and leeboards, I’ll let you use your imagination with this one. Plans and designs for mast securements are few and far between. Mine is made from 2x4 blocks and some scrap 1x2s. Make sure it’s sturdy, since the mast step will undoubtedly have the greatest stress placed upon it – this is another reason why you want to build the mast and sail first – it’ll give you a true idea of the forces placed upon your mast partner, and cause you to overbuild a sturdy partner, rather than underbuild something that will undoubtedly break.

The hull should be as straight as possible; since you had the hardware store cut your transoms, you should be able to square it up simply using those.

Lining up screws for through hull fittings can be difficult, so I recommend a chalk line. I don’t recall it’s official name, but it’s string wound up inside of a container full of powdered chalk. You twang the taught string across the wood and it leaves a straight line letting you know where your chine logs are. Particularly handy for attaching the bulkheads.